alas…am no longer in India, just getting through the mountain of material i accumulated there (so there will be more India posts a bit later), was relieved to leave with minimal fuss unlike last year where the whole school turned up to wave me off leaving me profoundly moved and profoundly embarrassed…not that i got off scot-free…
I managed to keep it together to say goodbye to my house mates, the small girls of luisiana home (just)…but then back at the main office, the Italians (visiting dentists and paediatricians) made such a fuss and then my older students turned up to say goodbye and of course i started to howl…which was a cue for each of the Italians to have their photo individually taken with me all red and tear stained and with me shouting “stop stop, this is a nightmare!!!!” in italian, and them snapping away…meanwhile one of the Indian staffers looked on singing “smile…though your heart is breaking…” It was indeed bitter sweet…pretty funny, even i was laughing in between sobs…Then just to pile things on a bit more, they sent some of the little girls in the car with me to see me off at the airport. One turned to me and said “don’t cry Marga” and i was off again…arghhh
goodbye beautiful Indian moon
Get up at 5.30am for a bicycle ride, by 8 it will be too hot to be pleasant. Can’t capture the true nature of the sun, it is a giant ball of diffused, fuzzy orange, there is mist in the air and a heavy dew on the ground.
At that time in the village and surrounding countryside folks have been up for a while already, the request for portraits come thick and fast…even as i am speeding by on a bicycle…
We cycle to Tulip Gardens another orphanage 6 or 7 km away. It is a smaller affair, some 60 or so children all with HIV. The kids come here in a horrible state, often unused to any kind of affection due to the huge taboo that still surrounds their illness.
The place is run by a rather remarkable Dutch couple who have been in India since ’76. They show us around…i don’t take photos as yet again i find myself facing the dilemma of whether or not to photograph…it seems a little sensationalist to photograph these HIV kids so i don’t. The kids do well here and their illnesses are managed, a bus brings them every day to school where i teach at Daddy’s Home…
Map from HIV/AIDS charity Avert:
Map of India showing the worst affected states for HIV/AIDS
Posted in documentary, india, photographic
Tagged Andhra Pradesh, children HIV, dawn, mist, orphanage, palm trees, rice fields, sunrise, tulip gardens
(this morning, sunrise in Galicia – no photoshop, it really looked like that…must get up early more often)
So now I find myself in Galicia for a wee bit…and as the photograph below implies am not exactly in a metropolis! Expect some foodie posts!
In the mean time let me tell you of my modest cyber circumstances. If I walk a couple of kms or so I get to a bar in Curtis (NOT as in “Mayfield” but pronounced “coor-teese”) In this smoky bar there are a couple of coin operated PCs…of modest abilities that eat money a lot for a living.
It is here amongst the brimming ashtrays and table football (yes they still smoke EVERYWHERE here!!!) and highly erratic opening hours that I attempt the occasional post so please…bear with me…
Yes…it is written…“CURTIS, closer to heaven”!!! (in gallego – local language used by all – and castellano – official spanish -) I can only guess we are referring to altitude here (600m above sea level)…and FYI I have spent a LOT of time here over the years so am allowed to throw a few digs at Curtis!!
Oh…and the photos do not exaggerate, Curtis ain’t pretty…and Galicia is in general very pretty… and i often think that Aki Kaurismäki could set a film here (though maybe even for him…it’s a little too quiet!!)
Posted in commentary, map, photographic, spain
Tagged Aki Kaurismäki, bar, Curtis, dawn, galicia, gallego, sunrise, table football
…dawn in the countryside just outside Rome after a night of thunder and lightening – corrugated iron roof so the sound effects were spectacular…
another foraging post tomorrow…